Hi all - I've put together some points about shooting Architecture, both interior and exterior.  Many of these tips can be applied to shooting landscapes and other types of shooting as well.  I'm certainly no expert and can always further my learning, but I hope you'll take away something from this post. 

I've included some images from a shoot at St. Mary's Basilica that I did a couple of weeks ago.  While I came away with some standard architecture shots I  focused more on detail shots.

Gear - like any job a variety of lenses are best, but a good wide angle lens with minimal distortion is what you want to be using.  After the wide angle a telephoto lens is nice to have for getting in tight on far away details.  A macro lens isn't necessary but is nice for getting shots of very fine details up close.  I'm currently using the Canon 17-40 F/4L + 70-200 F/2.8L IS, and the 100mm F/2.8 Macro.   When shooting buildings or landscapes a sturdy tripod is a must as you'll often be shooting in dark conditions with long exposures and with your lens stopped down for maximum depth of field and sharpness.  Pick up a bubble level to make sure your camera is level and right along the axis - this avoids tilted horizons and will help avoid distortion.  You can get bubble levels that will sit in the hotshoe of your camera.   Mirror lockup, a cable release, or your camera's self-timer will help avoid camera shake.

Light & Dynamic Range - when shooting interior/exterior architecture and landscapes the light is normally constant but tricky.  Backlit scenes or scenes with wide dynamic range (very dark areas through to very bright areas) can fool your camera.  I typically shoot in full manual mode since these situations can trick the meter in your camera.   If you're not comfortable with manual give aperture or time value a go.  It is helpful to review your histogram often and to try bracketing and HDR (high dynamic range) processing.   These methods will help us create an image closer to what our eye actually saw, rather than an image with blown highlights or areas of dark shadows.  Our eye is capable of seeing much more of a range from shadow to bright than our camera is.  These techniques mimic what you can do with a set of graduated neutral density filters.  Photography is simply capturing light - so really give some thought to the time of day, the direction/source of light, shadows, how harsh (contrasty) the light is, and the mix between ambient and created light that you want to achieve.  Typically the best ambient light is near sunrise and dusk, sometimes called "The Golden Hour".

Avoiding or Creating Distortion - the biggest problem with shooting architecture is distortion - as stated earlier using a lens with good distortion control and making sure your camera is level can help with this.  There are times you may want a distorted shot for dramatic effect or to emphasize or exaggerate something in the frame.  Distortion occurs due to perspective, distance from subject,  and converging lines.  You'll notice distortion when straight lines become curved and proportions of objects become exaggerated (this is more of a problem with interiors than with exteriors & landscapes).  You may also notice distortion as 'keystoning' where objects look like they are leaning or tilted.  'Keystoning' is caused by converging lines and the way to avoid this is to insure your camera is parallel to the verticals in the scene.  To achieve this (especially in interiors) you may need to elevate the camera up higher than eye level.   Try shooting from many angles, down low, up high, up close, far away, try avoiding and creating distortion.